Restaurant Andre (Singapore) by Andre Chiang

Chef Andre Chiang
Sun-kissed dining room at Restaurant Andre
Romantic aisle tables at Restaurant Andre
Setting
Come October 2012, Andre Chiang, a French chef of Taiwanese descent and chef-patron of Restaurant Andre, will celebrate the second anniversary of his restaurant at Bukit Pasoh. It might have been a short two-year period but Chiang has come a long way. The chef, who spent 14 years in the kitchen of some of the world’s most eminent French chefs including Pierre Gagnaire, Joël Robuchon, Michel Troisgros and the Pourcel brothers, made his Singapore debut at Jaan par André in 2008 before he struck out at Restaurant Andre with Loh Lik Peng as sponsor cum partner in October 2010. Occupying a 1920s triple-storey shop house space next to Loh’s flagship New Majestic Hotel, Restauarant Andre is decidedly boutique with just 30 seats. Dressed in serene hues of white and grey with sun-lit windows, forest-inspired wallpapers, porcelain antler-like ceiling lamps and metallic baba black sheep lambs doubling as bag holders, this restaurant sure is a modicum of cool. The best seats in the house are tucked in the window-hugging dining room on level two and if these are taken, the more romantic aisle tables illuminated by frosted glass Edison bulb lamps make lovely alternatives. For private events, book the intimate private dining room that sits shoulder-to-shoulder to the kitchen on level one.
Pure (no seasonings used): Zucchini gazpacho with fromage blanc flanked by hay-smoked bouchot mussels, smoked rock fish, abalone and prawn from Mediterranean coast – Summer 2012
Salt (briny flavours from the sea): Gillardeau oyster tartare layered with Granny Smith apple mouse crowned with edible herb garden of cucumber sticks, baby mushrooms, herbs and pearls of olive oil ‘caviar’ – Summer 2012
Artisan (artisanal produce): button mushroom couscous, Jabugo Jamon and potato on parsley puree with dehydrated garlic surrounded by sheets of ‘glass’ – Summer 2012
South (ingredients from Southern France): Brittany blue lobster with pink radish and tomatoes in a sweet rose champagne vinaigrette – Summer 2012
Texture (it’s all about the contrast of textures): Thinly-sliced squid salad with potato gnocchi, petit pois, tomato puree, wild herbs and dehydrated olive dust – Summer 2012
Unique (one of a kind): 3 textures (cured, cooked and dried) of artichoke with pan-seared barracuda adorned with petals of brussel sprout – Summer 2012
Memory (a timeless dish): Black truffle cream topped with foie gras mousse – with the creamy, custard-like texture of a chawan mushi – Summer 2012
Terroir (gifts from the land): Bresse pigeon with Dijon mustard seeds, pan seared fennel and potato gnocchi – Summer 2012
What to expect of Andre Chiang’s summer menu?
The inspiring, if complex, ‘octaphilosophy’ write-up on frosted paper gives diners a foretaste of what to expect – well, at least on paper. Essentially, Chiang expresses his culinary inspirations into eight tangible characteristics: Pure, Salt, Artisan, South, Texture, Unique, Memory and Terroir. Each is presented as a course in the restaurant’s menu-less multiple course dinner, which often tips eleven or twelve courses including the parade of exquisitely crafted amuse bouche, pre-desserts and desserts. Given the craftsman that he is, Chiang’s ‘octaphilosophy’ offerings naturally morph with the changing of seasons but you can almost always find his signature creations – like the ‘memory’ dish of foie gras with black truffle coulis – make recurring appearances. If you’re planning on dining here, book well in advance as the restaurant has a one month-long wait list. And, yes, do set aside at least two to three hours for the discovery of Chiang’s ‘octaphilosophy’ cuisine. Truth is, Chiang’s cuisine may appear philosophical at first but as the dinner progresses, you begin to see elements of his emotions, experiences and expertise unfold to epic dimensions. Chiang may be a reticent man but his cuisine is one of the most deliciously expressive we’ve experienced and his recently debuted summer menu is proof. Chiang is a brilliant example of a young chef exceeding (some, if not all of) his masters and a dinner here will confirm just that.
Restaurant Andre | 41 Bukit Pason Road | Tel: 65-6534 8880 |

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© Evelyn Chen 2013

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