The Flying Squirrel (Singapore) by Jack & Rai

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Setting

The Flying Squirrel is tucked away in the back alley of Amoy Street

Given the heavy weight names of the celebrity musician owners, Jack Ho and Rai Kannu, this debutant eatery could have been called “Jack & Rai”, but it isn’t.

The 600sqft space at The Flying Squirrel

Named The Flying Squirrel (“TFS”), for an animal that resembles the sugar glider (the Australian zodiac sign of Ho’s wife and TFS’ co-owner, Angelina Leong), the first F&B outpost of Singapore’s homegrown talent – Jack & Rai – resides in a shop house space sequestered away in the back alley of the recently revived Amoy Street. With just 27 seats cramped into a 600 square feet unit, the spot lit space with chunky pillars and exposed brick walls is decidedly cosy – more so if you get to rub shoulders with Jack & Rai when they’re not playing their regular gigs.

Leong takes it upon herself to ply the floor at TFS and she is assisted in the kitchen by a pair of ex-Inagiku chefs (both non-Japanese).

What to expect

TFS maki at The Flying Squirrel

Japanese is the hallmark of TFS but other than formulaic Japanese classics like sushi, sashimi and chiraishi, TFS also offers a bevy of Japanese-inspired fusion dishes that sets it apart from the crowd.

Now, don’t get your hopes up too high, TFS’ creations are by no means haute but, all the same, the menu ought to be lauded for its attempt at injecting fun to an otherwise austere cuisine at prices that will not break the bank.

The piece de resistance at The Flying Squirrel: Negi toro tartare

Bruschetta (S$18) is dispatched from the kitchen crowned with spicy bits of salmon tataki while panko-studded ebi fry (S$15) is prepared with a hint of truffle oil and served alongside a truffled mayo dip. The piece de resistance, however, is the negi toro tartare (S$18), chopped fatty tuna with spring onions, served chilled on a teaspoon crowned with the ambrosia of uni and black pearls of tobiko.

The mains run on dual tracks: there are standards like cha soba (S$13) and curry rice (S$16) alongside more playful creations like foie gras aglio olio (S$29). We had the latter – stir fried ramen noodles with smoked duck topped with a hunk of foie gras – and while we’re not enamoured with it, thanks in no small part to the underwhelming slices of smoked duck that overshadowed the foie gras, it scores brownie points in the creativity department. We have our eyes peeled on the wagyu udon soup (S$30) – next time!

Until our next big meal here, the cup of espresso (courtesy of Liberty Coffee) beckons. Star-struck fans of Jack & Rai will be pleased to know that Jack is certified to work the coffee machine.

The Flying Squirrel

92 Amoy Street | 65-6226 2203 | www.theflyingsquirrel.com.sg

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