Jaan’s Summer 2013 menu with Julien Royer

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Setting

Jaan’s interior

Despite the deluge of big name chefs in our tiny city-state, the 14-table Jaan deserves a spot in the city’s high-dining radar. Yes, the unblocked view of Singapore’s sculpted Marina Bay landscape from its 70^th-storey perch is nothing short of transcendental – and certainly a useful distraction from the low-ceilinged room of dull-grey walls overhung with rows of dreamy Murano crystal-crafted chandeliers that have stood the test of time. But the biggest draw is the artisan cuisine by the talented Julien Royer.

Julien Royer of Jaan

Royer, a French native from Cantal, Auvergene, grew up in a family of subsistence farmers and trained in the kitchens of Michelin stars-decorated restaurants like Michel Bras and Greenhouse. But it was in early 2011 at St Regis Singapore’s Brasserie Les Saveurs where he first stole our hearts with plates of distinction like the 36-hour-sous vide pork belly with horseradish shavings and rosemary-smoked potatoes.

Having clinched the coveted “One to Watch” award for Jaan at the inaugural Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List (2013) event barely 2 years after making the climb as chef de cuisine at Jaan, the affable 32-year-old chef is completely in his element. More so now than before, Royer is packing them in with his menu that morphs gently with the seasons and the full reservations list is proof.

What to expect?

Jaan’s garden from Jardin Gourmand menu

Just recently, Royer introduced the Jardin Gourmand menu (5 courses for S$148++, 7 courses for S$198++) to his repertoire. Featuring dainty seasonal Europe-imported vegetables like yellow carrots and Jerusalem artichoke in arty arrangements served alongside non-meat fixtures like Royer’s rosemary-smoked organic egg, the vegetarian tasting menu will appeal to both vegetarians and carnivores alike. Headlining this menu is Jaan’s Garden, an inspiring ensemble of broad beans, artichoke, blue potato and carrot adorned with wild herbs, cumin scented yoghurt, breadcrumbs and olive pearls. If it sounds amazing, take it from us that it is brilliant. Oh, the pleasure from the plethora of flavours and textures that Royer coaxes out from those vegetables!

But for an overview to Royer’s brut culinary approach, we suggest you subject yourselves to the whim of his 10-course Inspiration menu (10 courses, S$298++). Besides showcasing Royer signatures, the Inspiration menu also wows diners with highlights from the Jardin Gourmand menu.

Mozambique langoustine

Light and succulent, little morsels of plum-cured Mozambique langoustine tantalize the taste buds in between mouthfuls of Oscietra caviar-crowned ratte potatoes.

Atlantic cod

Equally impressive, the roasted Atlantic cod perked up with a creamy pink garlic sauce conveys a velvety, moist texture sans the fishiness usually associated with cod. Served with crayfish on a plate skirted with asparagus and broccolini, this dish bears testament to Royer’s deftness with fish yet again (there is life after his Arctic char with burnt bread).

Kagoshima beef with a side of Sicilian barley risotto

The Kagoshima beef striploin, another highlight at dinner, is also exemplary. Lightly grilled to tease out the rich flavours from the marbling, the meat is served with fairy ring mushrooms, mushroom ketchup and a side of lip-smacking Sicilian barley risotto.

Grilled Landes foie gras in dashi

The dinner toes the Japanese line when the grilled Landes foie gras dish appears in full Japanese glory – topped with shiso flowers and basking in a ginger-scented dashi broth. Top marks for creativity and the dish will fly with a lighter hand on the ginger.

Royer has scored yet another coup with his latest menu; so much so that it diminishes the only miscue at dinner, a beautiful Norwegian scallop dish with lashings of baby squid overshadowed by a way-too-loud carrot sauce.

But the chef swiftly regains his traction with the concluding trio of desserts. A standout is the pretty dish of Mara des Bois strawberry on rhubarb coulis and basil sorbet, a sweet that borders on transcendental. And doesn’t that perfectly describe our dinner experience at Jaan?

Jaan | Level 70 Equinox Complex, Swissotel The Stamford| Tel: 65-6837 3322 | http://www.swissotel.com

For picture story, visit www.facebook.com/bibikgourmand

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