“Bistronomy”, Cure, by chef-owner Andrew Walsh has evolved in its three years of operation at Keong Saik Road. While still offering a suite of affordable tasting menus, starting with the five-course dinner tasting menu for $120++ and seven-course Chefs Tasting Menu for $150++, the restaurant, which opened with a menu that attempted to showcase British and Irish ingredients, has started incorporating local ingredients and, at times, dashes of local flavours, in its repertoire.
For snacks, Walsh brings you a taste of Singapore by way of squid “noodles” (actually sous vide squid sliced and presented as noodles) served in a bijou dish basking in foamy laksa broth.But this does not detract from Walsh’s gastronomic intention for the restaurant and the parade of soundly executed and tasty snacks that ensue is proof, amongst them, an Austrain/German-inspired Linzer biscuit cookie sandwiched with foie gras and Kampot pepper-flecked Parmesan roll.
There’s also a main dish of locally sourced red snapper served with its delicately-fried crispy scales intact. While great on its own, the romesco sauce and garlic milk broth that it arrives with add a much-needed creamy-savoury and mildly garlicky flavour dimension. And of course, the generous shavings of in-season white truffle do not hurt.
The local flavours and ingredients may be few and far in between but there are no lack of dishes that impress, amongst them, a foie gras custard topped with in-season plum slices and almond crumble. Also, charcoal grilled Iberico loin coated with charcoal, juniper and black pepper served alongside bonito-crumbed aubergine in a light and savoury mushroom kombu broth.
On the downside, the course that I most look forward to, a pumpkin tart with a crown of sliced persimmon served with a scoop of burrata ice cream and a smidgen of herbed pesto freshly ground at the table, underperforms. The tart itself has barely a hint of flavour while the way-too-salty pesto overwhelms it. The concept is strong though and all it needs is some recipe tweaking and better table execution.
Thankfully, a meringue that arrives in all its beautiful spiky glory with autumn fruits embedded within more than arrests the situation, particularly so if you wash it down with the homemade Irish cream that comes with the petit fours.
21 Keong Saik Road, Singapore 089 128; +65-221 2189 ; curesingapore.com
BIBIK GOURMAND 