Ki-Sho (Singapore) with Kazuhiro Hamamoto

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Setting

Entrance of Ki Sho

Ki-Sho, an upscale Japanese restaurant by the owners of The Connoiseur Concerto, has breathed new life to a double storey black and white bungalow at Scotts Road. Once occupied by an antique shop, the sprawling property now boasts swatches of zen Japanese garden, a sake bar and a minimalist dining room with an L-shaped hinoki wood counter that seats 10. Big groups will appreciate the trio of traditionally decorated private rooms plus a waiting lounge tucked on level 2 – each private space comes complete with matt-gold leaf wall paper, shoji rice paper sliding doors and tokonoma (alcove) adorned by antiques.

What to expect?

Chef Kazuhiro Hamamoto

Helming the 10-seat hinoki wood counter is 33-year-old Kyoto native, Kazuhiro Hamamoto, former chef at Waku Ghin who cut his teeth at numerous kaiseki restaurants in Kyoto.

But at Ki Sho, Hamamoto prescribes omakase (let the chef decide) rather than kaiseki (a traditional multi-course dinner that showcases in-season Japanese ingredients through a succession of zen courses) via 3 omakase menus priced at S$230++, S$280++ and S$330++. Whilst majority of ingredients are sourced from Japan, Hamamoto weaves in just a smattering of western ingredients to excite the palate and the results are (still) quite stunning.

Gillardeau oyster with ikura pearls

Fugu ankimo on dashi custard with white truffle

During our visit, French Gillardeau oyster made a star appearance with pearls of ikura in yuzu jus; as did rice vinegar-marinated Tasmanian lobster that was gently steamed and served with nano hana (a kai lan-like vegetable) on folds of seaweed basking in yuzu-scented dashi. Most riveting, perhaps, was the mound of fugu hirako (sperm of fugu fish) that arrived on a bed of velvety soy milk-accented dashi custard enlivened with yuzu zest and a hint of white truffle shavings.

Uni with snow crab in dashi jelly

The classic Japanese small plates passed with flying colours too – most notable was the tongue of uni (sea urchin) served alongside Kasumi Port snow crab with curds of dashi jelly that had us rapt with the sparks of umami on the palate.

The only weak link in our near-immaculate dinner was the sushi course – the sushi rice was al dente rather than firm and risked falling apart before the morsel graced our palates. Perhaps a Japanese rice gruel dish would have been more apt?

Not withstanding that, Hamamoto has demonstrated remarkable flair with the execution and pairing of ingredients and we can’t wait to see what the young chef has up his sleeves when the season evolves.

Ki Sho | 29 Scotts Road | Tel: 65-6733 5251

For picture story, visit www.facebook.com/bibikgourmand

For picture story of our sake-paired omakase dinner at Ki-sho, visit here.

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